Taking a shoot in next to no light...

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Taking a shoot in next to no light...

Postby Mj on Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:34 pm

Ok... I think this is as good a place as any for this question!!!

I have a critter romping merrily around the treetops in my backyard tonight... a possum of some breed or other... yet to be determined if only I can capture a picture!!! And there's the problem... available light as good as zero... subject hiding in the branches... photag stumbling around the pool edge trying to fire off a focussed shot without taking himself and his beloved D70 for a swim... so what's the answer???
I am using a 70-300 to get close enough... and the SB-800 to light things up BUT... can't get a focus worth a damn. No one else at home to hold a second light and I'd probably lose the subject quick smart if did that anyway.

Is there a solution?

Please tell :?: :?: :?:
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Postby sirhc55 on Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:00 pm

Shoot the critter MJ and then photograph it laying on the ground :roll:

I have taken many photos of possums but you do need to get close - I had them about 6 feet from my balcony

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Postby bago100 on Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:05 pm

I find bribery works a treat with animals

A $10 note should do it

Hope this helps

Graham PS. A piece of apple or carrot left in the same place each night will encourage routine. Just focus your camera on the spot and set up with tripod and use remote control.
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Postby Mj on Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:15 pm

Ok... so basically the solution is to move the subject to a lightable location where I have some slightly higher hope of getting a focus... right?

Shall have to give it a go tomorrow...

I've been trying to snag a decent pic of a dragonfly today as well... wish the buggers would stay still for more than a fleeting moment... I've got a lovely collection of empty air and water shots and a few less than sharp dragonfly looking pics... thought it would make good practice but proving a little trickier than I had hoped. I've seen some beauties on pbase but beginning to think that superglue might be a well used ingredient.

Michael.
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Re: Taking a shoot in next to no light...

Postby digitor on Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:27 pm

Mj wrote:Ok... I think this is as good a place as any for this question!!!

I have a critter romping merrily around the treetops in my backyard tonight... a possum of some breed or other... yet to be determined if only I can capture a picture!!! And there's the problem... available light as good as zero... subject hiding in the branches... photag stumbling around the pool edge trying to fire off a focussed shot without taking himself and his beloved D70 for a swim... so what's the answer???
I am using a 70-300 to get close enough... and the SB-800 to light things up BUT... can't get a focus worth a damn. No one else at home to hold a second light and I'd probably lose the subject quick smart if did that anyway.

Is there a solution?

Please tell :?: :?: :?:


One method would be to pre-determine the focus during good lighting conditions, then manually set the focus to this point, set up your camera and flash somewhere, sit back and enjoy a few orange juices till the creature emerges, then fire away. Use a small aperture to enhance chances of success.

Cheers

Edit: I just noticed, basically what bago said...
What's another word for "thesaurus"?
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Postby BBJ on Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:33 pm

Hi Mj, Not sure if this will help but i know with my fuji if i have a prob with AF u can try use like a pen light or laser light to mark the subject then focus off that , i know there is some info on the net about it like putting velcro on the bottom of extenstion tube on the fuji and stick the laser light to it so u dont have to hold onto it.
Ok Cheers
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Postby AlistairF on Wed Jan 05, 2005 11:35 pm

You could setup your SB-800 in commander Mode up the tree.

Hmmm... :roll: Possum wee and SB-800?
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Postby birddog114 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 7:12 am

BBJ wrote:Hi Mj, Not sure if this will help but i know with my fuji if i have a prob with AF u can try use like a pen light or laser light to mark the subject then focus off that , i know there is some info on the net about it like putting velcro on the bottom of extenstion tube on the fuji and stick the laser light to it so u dont have to hold onto it.
Ok Cheers
John


Hey BBJ,
Don't try to play this game with the undercover COP, which you may not know or aware of, you'll be out of life first :shock: before you can put you finger on the shutter release button, :cry: they've been trained to do that and they worry about the red dot of your laser light pointed to them.
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Postby Glen on Thu Jan 06, 2005 7:17 am

Just buy 28 1.4, works in the dark :wink:
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Postby W00DY on Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:03 am

I took a photo of my son sleeping in his bed in pitch black and the camera focused as quickly as it usually does normally.

I was looking through the viewfinder and could not frame the image correctly as I could not see anything.

When I half pressed the shutter a red grid was flashed over the subject which I giess was used to focus. Do you get this?

If you don't get e red (laser?) grid than maybe there is a seeting which controls this. Sorry for the vague description but maybe someone else can explain this better.

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Postby birddog114 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:12 am

W00DY wrote:I took a photo of my son sleeping in his bed in pitch black and the camera focused as quickly as it usually does normally.

I was looking through the viewfinder and could not frame the image correctly as I could not see anything.

When I half pressed the shutter a red grid was flashed over the subject which I giess was used to focus. Do you get this?

If you don't get e red (laser?) grid than maybe there is a seeting which controls this. Sorry for the vague description but maybe someone else can explain this better.

W00DY


Woody,
Your shot in the bed room was with some lights, not very bright but there's some.
People are talking here about shooting in the darkness, in the darkness situation, you can't focus and you you won't get the red square indicator on your viewfinder to confirm you're in focus, cos the lens/ camera could not see your subject.
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Postby W00DY on Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:21 am

Birddog114 wrote:
Woody,
Your shot in the bed room was with some lights, not very bright but there's some.
People are talking here about shooting in the darkness, in the darkness situation, you can't focus and you you won't get the red square indicator on your viewfinder to confirm you're in focus, cos the lens/ camera could not see your subject.


OK, maybe it wasn't pitch black but it was close to it.

Regardless if there is a little light or no light (there would still be some light in the backyard of MJ's house, living in suburbia, moon, reflections etc...) Why wouldn't the camera use this red grid thing I am talking about? (Sorry I don't have my camera or manual with me so i can't use correct terms).

If te grid was to be activated then wouldn't it pick up the branches at least and have something to focus on?
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Postby birddog114 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:29 am

Yes it will pick up and focus on the subject which the camera/ lens point to if there's some light, say: if the bird is on the branch of the tree or some critter inside the bush with no light, how can you you point your camera to it and how the camera see it TTL? you can shoot but then there's OOF.
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Postby Mj on Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:45 am

Ok... well I plan to have another try this evening.
This time I'll also try another lens... maybe the 50/1.8... it won't give me the reach I need but will discount likely focus issues relating to the 70-300 I have been using.

Basically what I am trying to do is extend my use and practice photograghy in more difficult circumstances. Without extra lighting and setting up the subject for a 'pose' this particular exercise is actually quite tricky it seems... but I will press on.

The next challenge I am attempting is to capture a dragonfly in flight.
Entirely different issues to deal with and finding this one no easy job.
The damn things just don't stay still :!: :!: :!:

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Postby birddog114 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 8:51 am

Mj wrote:The next challenge I am attempting is to capture a dragonfly in flight.
Entirely different issues to deal with and finding this one no easy job.
The damn things just don't stay still :!: :!: :!:

Michael.


VR is Calling Sir!!!!!!!
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Postby stubbsy on Thu Jan 06, 2005 9:05 am

Woody

One other thing is in your bedroom your camera would have used the autoficus light (the bright light between the lens and the shutter release button) but it has limited range and if mj is using a long lens the subject will be too far away for the light to hit the target - hence no focus (of course I'm assuming you have the autofocus light on which is the camera default - I turned mine off since I read in Peter iNova's eBook a suggestion to only use it when it's dark which makes sense)

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Postby W00DY on Thu Jan 06, 2005 9:07 am

stubbsy wrote:Woody

One other thing is in your bedroom your camera would have used the autoficus light (the bright light between the lens and the shutter release button) but it has limited range and if mj is using a long lens the subject will be too far away for the light to hit the target - hence no focus (of course I'm assuming you have the autofocus light on which is the camera default - I turned mine off since I read in Peter iNova's eBook a suggestion to only use it when it's dark which makes sense)

Cheers


That answers my question, thanks.

Can you explain the suggestion to have it turned off?
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Postby stubbsy on Thu Jan 06, 2005 9:51 am

Woody wrote:Can you explain the suggestion to have it turned off?

Basically 2 reasons:
  1. it can startle your subject
  2. more importantly - you may not want your subject to know you're photographing them (eg I generally do landscapes, bu when I do people I like candids which by definition are unposed if the light comes on you've tipped off your prey!)
or to quote the eBook:
If you are shooting a dignitary in low light, the focus assist light could be mistaken by security guards as a threat. You and your camera could be suddenly wrestled to the ground.
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Postby sirhc55 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:00 am

Mj

You may or may not have heard of the following books that I have in my library and highly recommend:

Nature Photography Close Up by Paul Harcourt Davies
John Shaw’s Closeups in Nature
John Shaw’s Nature Photography Field Guide

Bought the first book from Dymocks on special at $14
The John Shaw books I purchased through Amazon.com for half the price in this country.

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Postby Mj on Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:43 am

Thanks guys...

Birddog >> I hear you, just have to wait till all the financial moons are aligned in my favour. What does a 600VR go for these days :?: :?: :?:

Stubbsy and Woody >> I had AF assist turned on for this exercise but it probably couldn't help in the circumstances... interestingly the possum was not far away really... I often find myself using 300mm in suprisingly close range shots to fill the frame and this is where I expect VR to really help.

Chris >> I'll investigate these books and see what that have to offer. I've seen some wonderful pics of drangonflies on pbase and as I seem to have a few round the pool right now I thought I'd take the challenge. It's certainly giving me a healthy respect for some of the shots on pbase!!!

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Postby MattC on Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:21 pm

Michael

Since you are using the SB800, you could use the modelling illuminator button above the display to light things up to get a focus lock. Care needs to be taken not to discharge the flash too much otherwise there will be nothing left for the shot.

Cheers

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Postby Mj on Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:27 pm

Excellent thought Matt. I will certainly give that a go this evening.

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Postby MattC on Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:31 pm

 BTW Michael,

From my own experience, possums have very poor sight (edited), but extremely accute hearing. It is unlikely that they will bolt because of a torch or flash. At best, they will look up to "hear" what is going on.

Cheers

Matt
Last edited by MattC on Fri Jan 07, 2005 1:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby sirhc55 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:37 pm

mattco6974 wrote:BTW Woody,

From my own experience, possums have very poor hearing, but extremely accute hearing. It is unlikely that they will bolt because of a torch or flash. At best, they will look up to "hear" what is going on.

Cheers

Matt


Matt

very poor hearing - acute hearing??

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Postby MattC on Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:50 pm

Whoops!!

Should read ...poor sight, and extremely acute hearing.

Cheers

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Postby BBJ on Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:53 pm

HEHEHEHE Birdy, Mate i have plenty of them laser lights too, stole them from the kids as they got them in there show bags, and got sick of them pointing at each other so i have them now, So yeh lets get the Velcro mount them under the lens and lightup, hey it's not a silly idea and works too. Well does for the Fuji.LOL
Cheers
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Postby birddog114 on Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:01 pm

Mj wrote:Birddog >> I hear you, just have to wait till all the financial moons are aligned in my favour. What does a 600VR go for these days :?: :?: :?:

Michael.


MJ,
Listen, when the dollar's up the VR is down and vice versa, the dollar will be heading downward soon! :lol:

600VR, it's cheap as chips :lol:
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Postby Glen on Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:03 pm

MJ, you could also try manually focussing on something the same distance away. Wont be perfect, but if you are lucky might be close
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Postby nodabs on Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:00 pm

in total darkness with the inability to move the subject best thing you can do is manualy set a focus point to say 3m or 4m (further away generally the less dead on you have to be with an apeture of say at least F8 to give some leeway and pedizoom your way in until you get in focus
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